Beyond the tourist trap

“IT’D better be worth it,” I think as I hurtle towards the bus for San Marino. After three hours and a train change at Bologna, I’m running like a crazy woman out of Rimini Station, zigzagging through the traffic with my luggage flapping like wings as the local bus revs up to leave. It’s been a long haul from Venice.

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A black-clad signora grabs my money, gives me an earful of “mamma mia” and waves me on board. I settle in for the 50-minute ride up the sandstone escarpment of the Apennines,

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